Copyright Đ Dennis Summerbell (1995)
d-summer@nimr.mrc.ac.uk
This document may be freely published, whole or in part, electronically or in print provided that there is no commercial or financial reward involved and provided that this notice of copyright and the disclaimer are included.
Disclaimer: These notes were produced originally as light entertainment for myself and as an aide-memoir for my old age. They are idiosyncratic and do not pretend to be an authoritative or accurate description. If they are useful to others as a way of encouraging an imaginative approach to skiing then you are welcome to read them. My only advice is that you consult with the pisteurs, avalanche control, tourist office, ski school or authorised mountain guide before attempting anything. The great majority of skiers essaying these runs would probably enjoy them most under the guidance of a local professional or expert. I would be grateful for any suggestions for other interesting routes.
The Trois VallČes (Three Valleys) comprises a group of resorts in Savoie. The valleys run north-south from high to low. They claim, I believe correctly, to be "le plus grande domaine skiable du monde" (the biggest ski area in the world). However you measure it, its probably true, each valley separately could make a case to be included in the Worlds top ten resorts, and put them together and you come up with an impressive ensemble. The resort consists of several separate lift companies. Beginners and weak intermediates can buy a lift pass for a single company, or even a sub-set of lifts in a restricted area but the vast majority of skiers will buy a 3-valleys lift pass. It is always possible to buy a dayžs extension to make a special trip outside the more restricted passes. Each valley is made up of a number of small villages, each of which has a distinctive character. I will briefly give a guide to who should stay where, then move on to the skiing.
Courchevel is the most chic, the most french, and the most expensive. The valley also has the prettiest views and the most varied skiing. It would suite all grades of skiers from absolute beginner to expert, and is therefore particularly suited to groups of mixed ability. The resort is split into various villages. Courchevel 1850 (the premiere accommodation), Courchevel 1650, Courchevel 1550, Le Praz (1300), Le Tania and various smaller hamlets. (The number are the altitude in meters). 1850 is the most convenient but also the most expensive. 1650 is quiet and seclude but should only be considered by intermediate skiers, or groups with intermediates and beginners. Skiers wanting to take full advantage of all three valleys should choose a more central village. The lower villages are all less convenient for skiing, but are more interesting older villages and not purpose built resorts.
Meribel is a British enclave. If you want to apres-ski with the french stay elsewhere. It has two main centres and a number of satellite villages lower down the valley. Meribelžs main advantage is its central position in the Three Valleys. It is ideal for advanced intermediates who want to ski everything. If you have beginners in the party choose Centre rather than Mottaret, otherwise there is no skiing reason for choosing between them. The main disadvantage of Meribel is the altitude of the main lift station, only 1450 meters. In an average year one safely skis to the bottom from mid-December to early April, but in poor years there will be weeks when the day starts and ends on grass. Timid intermediates would probably prefer Courchevel or Val Thorens. All of the satellite villages are charming but are to some degree inconvenient for those expecting easy access to the lifts. Transport is essential.
Belleville the third valley has two very different resorts: Val Thorens and Les Menuires. Val Thorens is the highest village (2000m), and therefore the safest for snow (it even boasts summer skiing). At one time it was the most secluded and quietest area but I now find that it gets unpleasantly crowded at peak times. Because of this, though it has excellent nursery slopes, I would not recommend it to beginners except out of season. Les Menuires is the least fashionable village (Les Manures to the Brits). But, do not sneer at it. It is easily the cheapest (most of us were poor once) and has enormous numbers of cheap self catering apartments. If you want to ski on a shoe string, consider Les Menuires. You get the same skiing as those paying much more in Courchevel, and still get to stand in the same lift queues as Brigitte Bardot and Giscard d'Estaing.
If Courchevel were no longer linked to the other two valleys it would probably still claim to be one of the world's Top Three ski-resorts. It is the prettiest valley with superb views of Mont Blanc and Belleville (the La Plagne mountain). Most of the skiing is in a gigantic north facing bowl that preserves snow on the steepest slopes, but there are extensive pistes facing all directions of the compass. It has the most varied range of skiing in the Trois VallČes with superb opportunities for every skier from total beginner to expert. Courchevel 1850 is the perfect resort for a mixed ability party.
The Courchevel Couloirs can be seen from almost anywhere in Courchevel. They snake down the North Col of Saulire, thin ribbons of snow separating the ribs of rock. Before attempting them for the first time, ski down Combe de Saulire and traverse left off the piste. One passes successively on the left the exit from Sous-pylons (right under the cable car), Emile Allais (the narrowest, steepest and longest) and Grand Couloir (the widest, and generally considered the easiest). Get a feel of the steepness and snow conditions and watch two or three groups skiing (or falling) down the couloirs. The bad news is that falls are frequent, the good news is that they seem to rarely cause injuries (other than to pride). Now make up your mind, but err on the side of caution, this is serious skiing.
The Couloirs can only be approached by taking the 140 man Saulire telepherique (cable car). 95% of the passengers turn left on leaving the lift, the intrepid few advanced or expert skiers turn right. The runs are currently listed as black itineraries. The couloirs are approached via a 2-3m wide gently descending beaten track along the ridge between Courchevel (right) and Meribel (left). At the start of the path there is normally a blackboard giving guidance on snow conditions. (Usually a warning that the runs are only open to very good skiers.) Intermediate or weak advanced skiers should not attempt these runs except with a professional guide or instructor. If in doubt you can visit the pisteurs in the first aid station on the far side of the cable car. They are usually helpful about giving advice. Before committing yourself to the path look left down the steep slope into the Meribel Valley. This is Couloir Tremplin, its more difficult than the Courchevel Couloirs but you may wish to attempt it later .
Grand Couloir is by convention the easiest Couloir, and most people ski it first. Ski down the path and look into a shallow bowl with unpleasantly uneven and awkward bumps. This is your last chance for a change of heart and an easy retreat. If you donžt fancy these bumps you probably shouldnžt be in the couloirs, youžll have to take off your skis and retreat back up the path. There are two possible entries to Grand Couloir. The most popular lies straight down the fall line of this upper bowl towards the lowest point of a shallow crest directly ahead. On arrival at the crest you look straight down a steepish slope towards Courchevel 1850. This is Grand Couloir. It may be slightly tricky getting started (particularly if snow boarders have cut up the entry) but the further you go the easier it gets. To reach the alternative entry traverse high left in the shallow bowl around the shoulder above the main entry. This gives access to the upper (northern) arm of Grand Couloir which is narrower and slightly steeper. Usually the snow is better on this arm and you get a longer more dramatic run.
Sous Pylons is the easiest to find. There are various variations of entry and two alternative exits. All are clearly visible from the cable car and can be reconnoitred during your ascent. Much of it is also visible from the upper station platform. Entry is from the ridge path and usually involves skiing through a cornice where there may be short drop off. This is tricky only if the couloir is icy. Sous Pylons looks the steepest narrowest and most intimidating couloir but I always think that it is the easiest.
Emile Allais lies between Grand Couloir and Sous Pylons. This is the most difficult to find, but careful reconnoitring during the cable car ascent will help to pinpoint the two possible entries. Technically it is probably the trickiest, but because fewer people attempt it the snow is usually better than Grand Couloir. If you thought that Grand Couloir was fun rather than frightening you will definitely enjoy Emile Allais. If you came off Grand Couloir glad that it was over, donžt attempt any of the others.
Couloir Tremplin descends on the Meribel side of Saulire. One can reconnoitre Tremplin from the bottom by traversing right of the Saulire-Meribel piste. The piste is technically no more difficult than some on the Courchevel side. BUT: 1). A slip near the top is potentially more dangerous, the gully is narrow in places and there are a few awkwardly placed rocks; 2). Also, it receives sun in the afternoon and on old snow tends to be icy in the morning. Tremplin becomes unskiable long before the north facing Courchevel couloirs. After fresh snow one can enter Tremplin straight from the Saulire cable car. This rapidly deteriorates exposing loose rocks under the snow. It then becomes necessary to traverse in from successively lower levels off the path leading to Grand Couloir. Take it gently at the top, you have to watch for rocks and think out the turns.
I should mention Death Couloir because you will hear people talking about it. Forget it. This is a very unofficial route on the Meribel side and should not be attempted. It may be possible with a professional guide (unlikely). You would be in big (and expensive) trouble if you got into difficulty on it. You risk losing your pass if your caught skiing it. If your this macho try working off your excess testosterone on the off-piste climbs on the Courchevel side instead (see next).
Croix de Verdon is a clear escalation of challenge. All of the four couloirs listed so far were listed routes on my last visit. (Rules change from year to year so check with the Tourist Office when you get out there). However there are further opportunities for the more adventurous. Set off as if heading for the upper entry to Grand Couloir. Continue traversing left across the top of the upper branch to the foot of a snow field. You canžt go too far or youžll finish up traversing on rock. Normally you wonžt be the first skiers there (the pisteurs and lift attendants have an unfair advantage) so you should be able to follow their tracks. In any case, take off your skis and set off straight up the fall-line, either kick steps or follow the existing track. The climb looks vertical but is actually quite comfortable and short (about 50m vertical). At the top is a very narrow snow ridge, definitely insufficient room for a picnic, indeed its usually only comfortable for one person to put on skis at a time. The reward is the longest couloir, sufficiently steep and narrow to look terrifying from below, but actually gratifyingly easy after the steep climb.
Per ardua ad astra, if you want to venture further youžll need to work harder. Croix de Verdon is just the start. The possibilities of climbing up the ridge and descending on the Courchevel side continue. However my personal experience ends here. Further progress clearly means more arduous climbing. If in the slightest doubt, hire a guide.
Easily the highest mountain at the Courchevel end of the Trois VallČes the Aiguille de Fruit provides splendid off-piste skiing on its lower slopes. While the Couloirs provide dramatic skiing, those preferring isolation may prefer the Aiguille de Fruit. This is a lonelier world. There is always someone passing by in the Couloirs to help pick up the pieces, but if something goes wrong on the Col de Fruit you are unlikely to be so lucky. Be cautious, and be sure that someone knows where you have gone.
With one exception the skiing lies in a gigantic Creux Bowl stretching from Vizelle in the east to Chanrossa in the West. Reconnoitre the terrain first looking across and down from Vizelle. Next ski down the easy red Creux (q.v.) stopping to look up at the ridge on your right. Finally go up the Chanrossa chair where you get further views into the bowl. Initially the bowl does not look promising. First, its obvious that there are avalanches down the Aiguille de Fruit. However, therežs a pisteurs hut at the top of the lift at Col de Chanrossa. They of course flag if the area is open or closed, they also tend to get the first shot on the traverse. I usually like to call in any way to check on snow conditions. They can tell you if its fluffy, heavy or crust. They also know that your out there if you do have problems. Second, there are no open slopes with even gradients and beautiful sets of linked turns. Thatžs part of the charm of the skiing. The area is full of complicated tricky bits of snow that will test any skier and therežs usually still untracked snow three or four days after the last fall. Third, the bowl looks like a trap with long hikes out from the bottom. There will be a bit of walking at times at the bottom but this usually leads to gentle down slopes that bring you back out at the Creux chair complex. The lift company usually bash a piste into the bowl to assist easy exits.
One should start the skiing by going up the Chanrossa Chair. A few years ago this was all off-piste but the company have now marked the area to the left of the lift (looking down the mountain) as a black run. They have also cut a path to detour round the most difficult parts so that even good intermediates can descend without problems. (See intermediate adventures.) Advanced and expert skiers have not been forgotten. The area to the right of the direct Sous-Pylons is a glorious unpisted black bumps field with a vertical fall of about 400m. The area is normally fenced off to discourage casual interest, but when snow conditions are adequate the pisteurs leave a narrow gap to permit entry. Choose your route carefully and this can be very steep and exciting. However it receives sun all afternoon and can also be icy and dangerous in the mornings. Treat it with caution. If you get on to the bumps and decide that you canžt cope with them you are better to keep traversing of to your right where the slope gradually gets less steep.
The deep snow skiing is to the left of the piste (looking down). From the top of the chair turn right and ski off the left hand edge of the piste onto an obvious traverse. This traverse is avalanche prone but if dangerous the entrance will be very obviously closed. If in doubt enquire at the pisteurs hut at the top of the lift. The traverse sweeps round for about 1.5 Km on the north face of the Crete de Chanrossa towards the Aiguille de Fruit. Gradients off the traverse vary significantly from place to place so that you can choose something that suits your ability. Nowhere is it very steep and it tends to become easier towards the very far end. The slopes are predominantly north facing and surprisingly lightly skied.
There are also runs on the east side of the Chanrossa ridge (see Courchevel 1600).
The more difficult skiing in the Creux Bowl is approached from the Creux Noir chair lift. If you turn right at the top of the chair there is the choice of a difficult red piste back down to Creux, or you ski off the other side of the ridge down towards Mottaret. The start of the Mottaret run is clearly signposted (when open).
Most of the off-piste skiing is to the left of the chair (looking up the mountain). It is possible to walk (therežs no need to take off onežs skis) along the ridge for about 1.5 Km. One can descend almost anywhere on the left hand side. There are various small precipices, and the gradient varies sharply from place to place. So its best to plan an approximate line of descent during your earlier reconnoitre. On the whole the gradients are steeper and the descent more satisfying the further one proceeds along the ridge. Finally one arrives at a rock face at the Col de Fruit, from this point it is possible to ski very close to your tracks from the longest traverse off Chanrossa.
There is one last run to describe. (Ižve left the best until last). Though one can in principle ski anywhere on the Courchevel side of the ridge (the Creux Bowl), the other side of the ridge is the Parc National de Vanoise, an alpine wild life reserve. It is absolutely forbidden (ABSOLUEMENT FORMELLEMENT INTERDIT) to ski anywhere in the park. There is one exception. Traverse along the ridge to the Col de Fruit. Keep your eyes open to the right because the domain is rich in alpine wild-life. Eventually you reach a final saddle before the ridge ends in a vertical face. On the right is a magnificent snow field directly under the west face of the Aiguille de Fruit. It is permitted to ski this field, you can ski straight down or traverse south before descending. You may not traverse to the right. At the bottom of the snow field lies the Allues brook. Cross the brook as soon as is practicable and ski over gently sloping lightly wooded meadows to the Ski de Fond above Mottaret. Alas you now face a 20 minute walk along the Ski de Fond Piste before you arrive at the lift. This trip takes a good half day. Its probably advisable to take a picnic or at least a snack. There are several places at which you will feel like stopping for a rest. There is nothing technically difficult about this route, it is easier than much of the skiing into the Creux bowl. But the distance and the isolation suggest that beginners at off-piste touring might be wise to seek a guide or ski school instructor to lead the trip. Apart from the walk along the ski de fond this is one of the nicest runs in the Alps.
There is little of interest for the advanced skier in 1600, this area is more a playground for beginners and intermediates. There are some off-piste runs on the eastern slopes of the Chanrossa ridge. These provide long runs back to Courchevel 1600. They are probably of more interest to advanced intermediates. They provide a wonderful introduction to this type of off-piste skiing and are best attempted with a ski-instructor or guide. Enquire at the Tourist Offices to see if any trips are planned. There is also good tree skiing for all in bad weather.
There was always good off-piste skiing on the slopes of the valley to the north-east of Loze. The opening of the Tania resort and the new Telecabine, and the provision of the Col de Loze lift from Meribel have much extended the available area. It is particularly suited to those just starting to enjoy off-piste skiing or to the less adventurous advanced skier. The slopes are north facing and relatively little skied so its possible to find good snow well after other areas are skied out. The off-piste is easily accessible, rarely far from the piste and retreat is easy if the conditions are not to your liking. Much of the area is lightly wooded so it can also be an attractive venue in poor visibility.
Vizelle is a much underestimated area. In any other resort it would be featured as the showpiece. In Courchevel it is a forgotten area on the way to somewhere more interestingū. It has no less than three significant black pistes (each over 500m vertical descent) and two interesting reds. Between these lie extensive off-piste terrain with steep north, south, east and west facing slopes. The best of these is Suisse. Suisse taken direct under the lift is an exciting testing run with several very steep stretches. Technically it is probably much more difficult than the Couloirs. The challenge is somewhat spoilt by the ease with which one can retreat from the difficult parts of the slope back to the prepared piste. However this does make it a very good area for people wishing to extend themselves physically without the associated danger of isolation. As the fresh snow deteriorates the area turns into an excellent bumps field with big, varied moguls. It is usually very quiet.
The Meribel valley has extensive off-piste skiing opportunities for all levels of ability. Perhaps least well served are the advanced-experts insofar as the most sustained and out of the way runs are served by lifts in the two adjacent valleys. In practice this is unlikely to be a handicap because the great majority of skiers will have purchased a Trois VallČes lift pass. There is also one important warning. The South-Eastern Valley (from Mottaret towards Aiguille de Fruit) is a Nature Reserve. With two precisely defined exceptions it is absolutely forbidden (formellement interdit) to ski within the boundaries of the reserve. The pisteurs keep this terrain under careful observation and unauthorised entry will usually result in interception, and at the minimum, confiscation of your lift pass. This ban is taken very seriously.
I start with Tougnette because :
1. it is the obvious area for those starting a romance with off-piste skiing;
2. it is usually the first area to open following a decent snow fall.
The area is extensive, safe and its easy to traverse off the more difficult slopes. The better skiers will have moved on to more difficult areas after their first run. Its therefore perfect for the less experienced to practice all but the most difficult grades of off-piste skiing. Absolute beginners at deep snow should quickly book a lesson. Those with some technique but no confidence should head for the middle station, take the Arpasson teleski and then try any of the beginners slopes of Grive, Tetras or Escargot. Even average intermediates will be able to enjoy the fresh snow lying on pistes which were perfectly groomed as the snow began to fall. Later you will be able to venture onto the snow lying to either side of the piste and onto the Charferie Teleski. Lower down the mountain there are also ample opportunities for deep snow skiing both in open terrain and between the trees. Often there is still untracked snow here days after the last fall. For the more adventurous there are also long routes down to Meribel Les Allues, and on the other side of the ridge to St Martin de Belleville. The latter deteriorates quite rapidly if the weather stays fine and should be attempted within two or three days of the last snowfall. All of these routes are suitable for the self-reliant skier of moderate ability who wants to explore. The more cautious may prefer to book a guide or take advantage of the new snow by joining a three day deep snow clinic.
There are few opportunities in this area for the advanced/expert skier. The area to the Meribel side of Cretes running down to the middle station provides plenty of varied off-piste runs. The routes, problems and pit-falls are all obvious from a cursory examination from the telecabine and do not deserve a detailed description. On the whole, the gradients are steeper towards the south , but there is nothing that is particularly severe.
The opposite side of the valley is similar to Tougnette but lacks both the difficult and easy extremes. This is a good safe area for those with basic technique. They can safely practice their skills both at skiing and planning a route without exposing themselves to risk. The area includes moderately steep sections, broken terrain and tree skiing.
A special warning about La Mur (the Wall). In France the name La Mur is usually given to very steep slopes. These can be quite short (as in the famous steep drop off the glacier at Tignes) or long (as in the infamous 350m descent killer piste at the Portes du Soleil). In Meribel the name is atypically given to a jump lying to the side of Marmotte (Marmot). The jump is clearly off-piste. Those attempting it do so at own riskū. The jump is a fairly unpleasant near vertical 6m wall (hence La Mur) at the foot of a moderate slope. It can have a very steep, or even undercut lip. The landing area is a bit too flat for comfort and can be quite uneven due to the gravesū of previous fallers. As it is off-piste with good visibility on the run in there are normally few problems from crossing skiers. For the good skier it poses no problems. In bad snow conditions, over-ambitious intermediate-advanced skiers risk serious injury. I know to my cost and still bear the scars from 20 years ago. All your friends will coax you to try it. If in doubt, donžt. If you do, take it easy.
From Saulire there are three significant areas.
One can descend anywhere from the traverse linking Saulire with Burgin. These slopes are south-west facing and the snow rapidly deteriorates, so be cautious. Half-way down, the slope is cut by a gentle path from the middle station of Pas du Lac to Burgin so that you can always traverse off to the right. Below the path the slope tends to funnel you into a steep sided bowl ending in a stream bed at the Meribel-Mottaret road. The very steep right hand slope (looking down the hill) is usually one of the first areas in the valley to avalanche so treat this area with extra caution. Regulars to Meribel will know the area well. For most of the season the danger area is marked by the brown scar of exposed earth, but of course this is hidden after fresh snow. At the foot of the slope you will normally have to take of your skis to cross the road before joining La Truite (The Trout).
The other two descents are much more interesting but are approached via lifts in Courchevel. For completeness I will cover them again here.
The descent to Mottaret at the southern extreme of the slope is approached from the Creux Noir (Black Bowl) chair lift in Courchevel. If you turn right at the top of the chair there is the choice of a difficult red piste back down to Creux, or you ski off the other side of the ridge down towards Mottaret. The start of the Mottaret run is clearly signposted (when open). Remember not to stray to your left into the National Park (clearly indicated by boundary posts.
The final route is the Couloir Tremplin (Springboard Gully), now
apparently renamed Tournier. One can reconnoitre Tremplin from the bottom
by traversing right of the Saulire-Meribel piste. The piste is technically no
more difficult than some on the Courchevel side.
BUT:
1). A slip near the top is potentially more dangerous, the gully is narrow in places and there are a few awkwardly placed rocks;
2). It receives sun in the afternoon and on old snow tends to be icy in the
morning.
Tremplin becomes unskiable long before the north facing Courchevel
couloirs. After fresh snow one can enter Tremplin straight from the Saulire
cable car. This upper entry rapidly deteriorates exposing loose rocks under the
snow. It then becomes necessary to traverse in from successively lower levels
off the path leading to Grand Couloir. Take it gently at the top, you have to
watch for rocks and think out the turns.
There are useful patches of snow on both east and west sides of Mont de la Challe. These are suitable mainly for advanced skiers improving the range of slopes on which they feel comfortable. They are also extensively used by the ski schools for teaching the less advanced off-piste classes. Nothing here is particularly difficult nor particularly exciting. The piste immediately adjacent to the Roc de Tougne lift used to be an excellent medium black bumps field. These days the lift company grooms far too much of the slope to make an easier descent via Lagopede (Ptarmigan). This has come close to spoiling a good black run without producing a particularly memorable red one. The other side of the lift is marked on the maps as a red itinerary and therefore presumably considered particularly suitable for those wishing to practice off piste. The restaurant at the foot of the Roc de Tougnette lift, Arpasson, is my favourite mountain restaurant in the Meribel Valley.
The Meribel side of Roc des Trois Marches (Rock of Three Steps) provides interesting and challenging skiing for good advanced and expert skiers, arguably the best in the valley. There is a conveniently located pisteurs/avalanche control hut at the summit and they are usually happy to advise on suitable routes and possible dangers. The main piste here, Bouquetin (Mountain Goat), is a good guide to the level of skiing that you can expect. Bouquetin is a genuine black. Never groomed, never easy, never suitable for non-advanced skiers. It can be reconnoitred in detail from the Plattiers Trois Telecabine. From this vantage point the most obvious feature of Bouquetin is the vertical cliff to the left of the piste (looking up the mountain). In practice this never comes into play whilst skiing the piste and there is no danger. However its always there in the mind which adds sufficient tension to make the piste a challenge. The entry to Bouquetin starts immediately under the lift cables to the right hand side of the Mouflon (Mountain Sheep). Cut through the cornice (or down a very small drop off) and start straight down the fall line. The start is divided by a ridge of rock into two gullies, the right hand one is easier but carries one closer to the dangerous cliff. Once past the gullies the slope generally carries one away from the cliff so there is no further danger. Bouquetinžs only drawback is its relatively short length, only 300 m vertical descent.
If you find Bouquetin enjoyable rather than challenging and have also skied the Courchevel gullies (to establish your skiing credentials) you should call in at the pisteurs hut and enquire about the gullies to the right hand side (looking down the hill) of the Platiere lift. These start off as three difficult steep gullies leading to interesting broken terrain that drops down 400-500 m towards the path from Platiere to Plain des Mains.
The easiest route sets off in roughly the same line as the Allouette piste but gradually diverge towards your left so as to ski round the shoulder of the ridge that runs back towards Bouquetin. As the valley comes into view keep traversing left, the further you go the longer and steeper the descent on your right will become.
A little more difficult is the route just to the right of the Platiere cables (LDM). It drops down a narrow gully past the gasex anti-avalanche device. As you emerge from the gully the valley bottom comes into view and you can pick your own route over the broken terrain.
I have not skied the third route but the pisteurs tell me (and distant viewing of the terrain confirms) it is the most difficult. The entry lies midway between the other two routes directly in line with the Plain des Mains lift. It is narrow and steep but not life threatening.
The Cote Brune is a complete contrast to the intimidating broken gullies of Trois Marches. This is a bare, steep, east facing slope ideal for those whose who dream of producing perfect pretty sets of linked turns. Although accessible from Roc de Trois Marches, it is probably better to approach it for the first time from Mont de la Chambre. Before doing so check at the pisteurs hut at Roc des Trois Marches that the cornice is safe, then take the Cote Brune lift up to Mont de la Chambre. The Cote Brune slope lies parallel to the lift to your right. From the lift you can see the entire slope and the three access points are immediately obvious.
From Mont de la Chambre first ski into the obvious bowl lying between Les Pylones and Venturon. The bowl itself usually has good snow but the runs are short. If the snow in the bowl is too difficult for you, you can always ski back to the Venturon avoiding the longer slopes of the Cote Brune. Otherwise exit the bowl as high as you can on the left hand edge. You are now on the southern end of the main Cote Brune traverse and can descend down towards the Venturon piste at virtually any point along the traverse. Do not be concerned about the shallow depression between you and the Venturon piste, there is a gentle slope on it that makes the trek out to the lift easy. Do not ski too far along the traverse, you will spoil the snow in the centre of the slope that is best accessed from higher up on the Les Menuires side (see next).
To reach the central entry point take the lifts to Roc des Trois Marches and ski down the Allemand piste to La Becca teleski. At the top of the lift take off your skis and climb straight ahead to the cornice. Ski through the cornice. If your early enough and lucky enough the snow will be untouched all the way to the valley floor some 500m below you.
The lazy skier who does not fancy the climb to the cornice can turn off the Allemand piste at the obvious col just below Roc des Trois Marches. This is the northern third entry point to the Cote Brune. A right hand traverse brings you out onto the sunlit eastern slopes. Weaker skiers will usually find the snow at its easiest on the less steep gradients of the earlier part of this traverse. It is possible to cover the entire slope from the southern and northern entry points but this rather wastes the snow on the central entry.
Finally on the Cote Brune, there is a very enjoyable easy off-piste itinerary under the Cote Brune chair. This is neither steep nor difficult and provides a suitable opportunity for those just getting into off-piste skiing to practice their skills. The safety of the Venturon is always only a short traverse away if the snow becomes too difficult.
The return from Val Thorens to Mottaret from the Mont de Peclet was at one time considered a classic alpine itinerary. Itžs normally skied as part of the circuit of the Trois VallČes so I have dealt with it under the Val Thorens skiing.
The Belleville Valley provides fewer opportunities for testing off-piste skiing for the visiting skier. There are a number of long touring routes ending outside the valley that require organisation of transport, and the Tourist Office or ski-schools can advise on appropriate guides. There are still some significant runs that the advanced-expert skier visiting the Three Valleys for a limited period should not miss.
There is an enormous area of easy, gently sloping off-piste skiing on the west facing slopes above Les Menuires. This is suitable for the relatively inexperienced. They will encounter ski-school classes making use of local knowledge to find good snow well after the last snow fall. The advanced-expert skier will find little of interest in this area except for two black runs off Mont de la Chambre: Les Pylons and Leo Lacroix. Both are just genuinely black, but are of interest only on steep ungroomed sections near the top. These develop into enjoyable, but fairly short, bumps fields. The La Becca lift also gives access to the Cote Brune off-piste in the Meribel Valley
Skiers of all standards from intermediates up should enjoy a visit to La Masse. To get there ski down the Les Menuires home slopes into the square formed by the buildings. In the far right-hand corner ski across the bridge over the main road then turn sharp left. A wide path leads to the main La Masse lift. Whatever you do, before leaving La Masse, be sure to: 1) visit the top station to admire the superb views. The restaurant here has all the charm of a bus station cafeteria so instead, 2) stop off at the middle station restaurant for a meal, a beer, or coffee. The restaurant is cut deep into the rock of La Masse and should not be missed.
There is nothing that is particularly severe on La Masse. In normal snow conditions advanced-expert skiers will find the runs interesting rather than challenging. The best is perhaps the Lac Noir area which provides varied easy gully skiing. There are numerous variations so that the weak advanced skier will be able to pick out a relatively easy route while the expert will find sufficient small drop-offs, steep walls and narrow gullies to maintain interest. The broken terrain is sufficiently interesting to tempt you to return and do it again.
Aside from the main runs on La Masse there are two long itineraries that in good visibility can be attempted without significant difficulty. Les Yvoses starts from the top of Lac Noir and returns to Les Menuires via Le Bettex chair (check on the indicator board at the foot of Masse I that the chair is running as you set off up La Masse). Lou starts from the top of La Masse and drops down into the valley between La Masse and Cime de Carron. The only significant difficulty is crossing the stream before coming out at the Plan de lžEau lift. Here one can choose either to go up the lift into the Val Thorens skiing or to return to Les Menuires via a rather flat path. For my taste, if your in the Three Valleys for only 6 days you may wish to combine La Masse with a trip to Cime de Carron. If your there for longer it deserves a day to itself.
There are also much longer and more exciting itineraries starting at La Masse. These require local knowledge and transport arrangements. Enquire at the tourist office or ski school for information about guides.
Cime de Carron at approx. 3200m provides the highest skiing in the Trois VallČes. If one is staying at Meribel or Courchevel it is difficult to do justice to the skiing at Cime de Carron in a single day. Those fortunate to be staying for two weeks should budget their time to include at least two visits. From the top, there are only two pistes, one black, Combe de Carron: one red, Mediene de Carron. Both are straightforward and of average difficulty for their grading. The slopes are mainly north facing and so the snow stays good. If you have time ski either of these pistes before trying one of the two itineraries. Weak advanced skiers may then wish to attempt the relatively easy itinerary dropping down into the Vallee du Lou. This is straightforward and brings one back to Cime de Carron (via Boismint), or down to Les Menuires. The other itinerary Plan Bouche is currently marked on my piste map as a red itinerary. In my view it would be more suitably marked as black. When gently bumped with good snow conditions it is suitable for weak advanced skiers. Otherwise it is only suitable for advanced-experts. The slope is usually one of the last to be opened and because it faces predominantly south-west the snow usually looks beautiful but is frequently both deep and heavy. It requires technique, strength and fitness to ski it with enjoyment. Once there is crud and/or bumps it again becomes much easier. Good skiers will appreciate the run at its best by skiing left just below the summit restaurant (this variant definitely promotes the difficulty to black). Therežs usually a slightly tricky passage through the cornice but after that one has the best of the run. At the bottom, one can ascend again only to the Col de Rosael. From here therežs a short but tiring walk up a cutting through the ridge. Straight ahead lies an interesting little head wall. It looks quite steep but nothing special. Its the only place where Ižve seen an instructor obviously struggle and then fall, followed by a chortling colleague who suffered an identical fate. A third instructor led all three classes off on a traverse to the left where presumably they found an easier way down. The pitch is quite steep, but its also quite short and has a safe run-out at the bottom. This whole area is a wonderful deep snow off-piste area for three to four days after snow. Its high, north facing, a bit out of the way and often one of the last bits of snow to get tracked. It seems to be particularly popular with snowboarders. Whichever direction one takes here one can eventually head for the foot of a lift.
Ideally those pushed for time should try to ascend the Fond 2 Telesiege. At the top climb up the ridge. On the other side of the ridge is one of the best open snow off-piste slopes in the Three Valleys. Its probably only suitable for advanced/experts, because at the bottom there's a tricky cliff. If your lucky to find the snow good and untracked youžll never forget this run. Snow conditions can be very variable. Like the Plan Bouchet Itinerary this slope tends to be opened late. It can therefore be soggy and difficult. However, often it forms a stable thick wind packed crust where you can carve delicate turns in the surface without going through. My 50 Kilo wife would make Legolas jealous (Tolkien: Lord of the Rings, The Ring goes South). She skis this snow like an elven princess. In January, please, please ski somewhere else, therežs only space for about twenty tracks and you should leave some for her. At the foot of this slope one arrives at a short but shear precipice. Ižm not into rock drop-offs so canžt advice. Instead traverse right or left. To the left the terrain falls away allowing a relatively easy way through, to the right therežs a slightly trickier narrow arrete. Below the precipice ski off to the right where you can rejoin the piste down to the Plan Bouchet.
Good intermediates and weak advanced skiers should walk up and look down this piste. In a few weeks skiing this could be you. However there is no need to feel left out now. There is a wonderful run off the Chaviere Glacier that comes down the same valley and which is perfect for you. You will need a guide, so if your tempted check with the ski school or tourist office who will be able to advise.
There are two restaurants here that are a must. I usually try to get to Cime de Carron as early as I can then stop off in the Chalet Caron near the bottom station of the lower stage of the Caron lift for coffee or snacks. At this time if your lucky youžll even get a seat by the log fire! In fine weather I later head for the terrace of the Chalet Refuge de Plan Bouche. This is a very attractive spot for a late lunch if therežs warm afternoon sunshine. In cold weather I would probably return to the Chalet Caron.
Slower skiers staying in Meribel or Courchevel may wish to consider an interesting strategy for making the most of the Cime de Carron area. The local Tourist Office will assist you in booking an overnight bunk in the Chalet Refuge de Plan Bouche. You will need to carry a sleeping bag and a toothbrush but will be able to buy an evening meal and breakfast in the restaurant. This would allow you to make the most of your time in Val Thorens.
Val Thorens used to have some of the best skiing in the Three Valleys. In those days it was the quietest resort in the area and usually had the best snow. The snow is still there, but these days the resort is much, much more crowded. I regret that I donžt have much to say about the skiing here.
Running down to the resort from either side of the Aiguille de Peclet are two courtesy blacks, Beranger and La Moraine. Neither are particularly difficult. Beranger is accessed from the Funitel de Peclet (a not to be missed machine apparently stolen from Darth Varder just prior to the destruction of the Death Star). This could be a very exciting fast piste if prepared as a downhill. Unfortunately the capacity of the Funitel turns it into a slow slalom (round the bodies of struggling intermediates). Boy racers should consider getting up early to catch the first lift in the morning. In my foolish youth I used to do this, its where I learned to curve the racing line. Running parallel with the bottom of Beranger and served by its own chair lies a very attractive bumps field, Cascades. This is a genuine hot dogging field with the bumps pointing down the fall line. Frequent skiing by the very best bumps skiers have turned the moguls into a nightmare for the rest of us. Still one keeps going back, that elusive rhythm is somehow almost there... and one last run might just catch it for ever.
The best off-piste skiing is off the back of the glaciers on Peclet. These give access to seriously long runs. Starting on glaciers with difficult crevasses they are dangerous and certainly need a guide. My recommendation would be the route down the Glacier du Borgne.
The final run in the guide is the famous Retour Val-Thorens. At one time this long (14 Km) black itinerary was the most famous and most sought after run in the Trois VallČes. Now it has been demoted to the status of a red piste. It is still long and is most frequently skied late in the afternoon after a tiring round trip from Courchevel or Meribel to Cime de Carron and Val Thorens. It is therefore still not to be taken lightly by intermediate or weak advanced skiers. Do not leave it till late to leave Val Thorens. The upper stages of the twin Trois VallČes lifts are a notorious bottleneck and you can queue here long enough to make the descent a race against time. Avoid this by setting off home early. Those from Courchevel are in the greatest danger they still have to catch the Bruyeres Gondola in Mottaret. Be warned that the lift company does not always clear the queue before closing the lift. It is common to be refused passage here after closing time and this will involve a very long bus trip down to Moutiers then back to Courchevel or an expensive but quicker taxi ride.
This is guidance to the level of ability I have assumed in recommending appropriate runs. Its an extension of DIN 7890, Publication:1996-11, Wintersports equipment - Ski for alpine skiing -Description of target groups for skiers, but in accord with current normal European practice it extends the range of abilities to include an extra level above advanced.
Complete beginner, skiers who mainly use snowplough turns, skiers who usually make a conscious, deliberate stem during the turn. Will ski green and blue runs, will find some blue runs difficult. On a 6 day ski holiday should expect to go to ski-school on most of those days.
Skiers who consciously try to ski most turns parallel (though who may still have a small unconscious stem or who use a stem when in difficulty). Skiers becoming aware of different styles. Skiers learning to ski bumps and off-piste. Will ski all blue runs with confidence and will not hesitate to ski reds. Occasionally in good conditions (normally accompanied by more experienced skiers) will attempt easy blacks. On a six day ski holiday should still be taking formal lessons. Either group lessons for a significant proportion of the six days or regular private lessons. Intermediate skiers practicing off-piste skiing should not stray far from the pistes unless accompanied by a guide, an instructor or an expert friend.
Skiers who normally ski parallel on piste, off-piste and in bumps. Will consciously adapt to different terrains by changing styles. Can ski most bumps over the top, round the sides or in the valleys using appropriate techniques. Skiers learning to ski more varied off-piste conditions. Will ski all red runs with confidence and will not hesitate to ski most blacks. In good conditions will attempt seriously difficult blacks. Are starting to ski appropriate itineraries and off-piste routes with which they are familiar without an instructor or guide. Advanced skiers should still be taking occasional lessons: off-piste clinics, race training, bumps specials etc. or private tutorials to spot developing bad habits. They will be extending their experience of difficult off-piste routes by attending specialist ski clinics, hiring guides, or accompanying expert skiers.
Includes most professionals and a small proportion of recreational skiers (usually estimated in Europe at around 2%). Most will not need my advice but some visiting the Trois VallČes for the first time may still find it useful.
CopyrightĐDennis Summerbell, 1977, (Link to full copyright notice)
Updated 16th March 1998